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Written by Administrator
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Saturday, 28 November 2009 01:29 |
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Generally, subprime mortgages are for borrowers with credit scores under 620. Credit scores range from about 300 to 850, with most consumers landing in the 600s and 700s. Someone who is habitually late in paying bills, and especially someone who falls behind on debts by 30, 60 or 90 days or more, will suffer from a plummeting credit score. If it falls below 620, that consumer is in subprime territory.
Few lenders will use the term "subprime" to describe you or your loan because it's considered bad salesmanship. You might hear the word "non-prime" or, more likely, an adjective won't be used to describe the mortgage at all.
Mortgages for people with excellent credit are somewhat of a commodity, with rates that don't vary much from lender to lender for equivalent loans. That's not the case with subprime mortgages. You might receive widely differing offers from different subprime lenders because they have different ways of weighing the risk of giving you a loan. For that reason, it's important to comparison shop when your credit score is less than 620.
How subprime mortgages differ
Subprime loans have higher rates than equivalent prime loans. Lenders consider many factors in a process called "risk-based pricing" when they come up with mortgage rates and terms. This makes it impossible to generalize about subprime rates. They are higher, but how much higher depends on factors such as credit score, size of down payment and what types of delinquencies the borrower has in the recent past (from a mortgage lender's standpoint, late mortgage or rent payments are worse than late credit card payments).
A subprime loan also is more likely to have a prepayment penalty, a balloon payment or both. A prepayment penalty is a fee assessed against the borrower for paying off the loan early -- either because the borrower sells the house or refinances the high-rate loan. A mortgage with a balloon payment requires the borrower to pay off the entire outstanding amount in a lump sum after a certain period has passed, often five years. If the borrower can't pay the entire amount when the balloon payment is due, he or she has to refinance the loan or sell the house.
Researchers contend that prepayment penalties and balloon payments are associated with higher foreclosure rates. The subprime mortgage industry contends that borrowers get lower interest rates in exchange for prepayment penalties and balloon payments, but that point is debatable.
Predatory loans
Subprime customers have to be on the lookout for predatory lenders who set out to cheat borrowers. There are several predatory tactics, and sometimes a lender will combine them. Some lenders soak naive borrowers with outrageous fees and sky-high interest rates. These lenders are likely to tell the borrower that his or her credit score is lower than it really is.
Another predatory tactic is to pressure a homeowner to refinance the mortgage frequently, charging high closing fees each time and rolling the closing costs into the mortgage amount. That goes hand in hand with another predatory tactic: Issuing a loan regardless of the borrower's ability to repay it. When the borrower inevitably defaults, the predatory lender forecloses and sells the property.
An ethical mortgage lender doesn't want to foreclose on a property because it is a money-losing process. An ethical lender makes money by charging interest and loses money by foreclosing. A predatory lender, on the other hand, profits by repeatedly collecting closing fees, then seizing the house.
To defend yourself from predatory lenders, find your credit score before shopping for a mortgage, and ask people whom you trust for referrals to mortgage lenders. And comparison shop by going to at least two mortgage brokers or lenders.
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Written by Administrator
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Saturday, 28 November 2009 01:36 |
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1. Reduced income/same expenses. Too often we delay bringing expenses in line with a reduction in income for a host of good reasons and let debt fill the gap. The sooner you adjust to your new reality, whether it be temporary or permanent, the better off you'll be.
2. Divorce. More than half of us do it, some more than once. I can think of few things more expensive and likely to put you in debt. For those of you who have never done it and would like to get some idea of the impact, sell all your assets and get the money in $50 bills. Go to a hotel on a busy street, and you and your spouse open two windows and see who can throw the most money out the fastest. It can be breathtaking.
3. Poor money management. A monthly spending plan is essential. Without one you have no idea where your money is going. You may be spending hundreds of dollars unnecessarily each month and end up having to charge purchases on which you should have spent that money. Planning is no more difficult than writing down your expenses and income and reconciling the two. You will be surprised at how powerful you'll feel when you are making thoughtful decisions about where and when to spend your money.
4. Underemployment. A close cousin to No. 1, people who experience under employment may continue to think of it as only temporary or if they are coming off unemployment feel a false sense of relief. Yes, you deserve a break, but this is not the time. Get those expenses in line with your current income. Down the road if you increase your income due to more hours, a second job, or a better job, then is the time to start adding in some of the previous spending before you became underemployed.
5. Gambling. Call it America's new entertainment or (considering the boom in tribal casinos) the Indian's revenge. Either way there is a guaranteed exchange of money from you to "the house." It can be addictive, hard to stop and loans are freely available. Gambling establishments may be the only place you can mortgage your house while intoxicated and have it be legal. I'm sorry, I forgot -- this is entertainment!
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Written by Administrator
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Saturday, 28 November 2009 01:35 |
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The amount of personal debt in this country is ever-increasing, and a large part of the reason is that credit has never been easier to get. Whereas credit card issuers previously looked for customers who could repay, today card issuers relish the chance to reel in those who'll continuously charge beyond their means at 18 percent or 20 percent.
But debt is a complex concept. Not all of it is good -- a fact a surprising number of Americans fail to realize until they're in the hole -- and yet not all of it is bad. When used intelligently, debt can be of tremendous assistance in building wealth.
One of the secrets, therefore, to being smart with your money is to differentiate between good debt and bad debt. While the differences often seem logical, it is a logic that apparently is missed by many Americans.
"When you buy something that goes down in value immediately, that's bad debt," says David Bach, CEO of Finish Rich Inc., and author of "The Finish Rich Workbook." "If it has no potential to increase in value, that's bad debt."
Good debt
"Good debt is investment debt that creates value; for example, student loans, real estate loans, home mortgages and business loans," says Eric Gelb, CEO of Gateway Financial Advisors and author of "Getting Started in Asset Allocation."
Robert D. Manning, a professor of finance at the Rochester Institute of Technology, also recommends taking on debts that are tax-deductible and debts that produce more wealth in the long run.
"If you are talking about reducing current debt, that's where it starts to get nuanced," says Manning. "If you take a home equity loan because you have 17 percent credit card, and you go with a 6 percent loan that's tax-deductible, that's good debt."
These general rules of thumb set some clear delineations -- buying a home or refinancing to get rid of excessively high rates is usually good debt, as is generating debt to buy high-return stocks, bonds and other investments.
Bad debt
The concept of bad debt comes in when discussing the purchase of disposable items or durable goods using high-interest credit cards and not paying the balance in full.
"The trouble is most people are not organized enough to retire the entire balance before the due date," says Gelb.
Every month that you make a partial payment on your credit account you are charged interest. The disposable or durable item you purchased continues to lose value, and the amount you paid for it continues to increase.
"When you buy clothes, they're probably worth less than 50 percent what you pay for them when you walk out the door," says Bach. "So if you borrowed to pay for them, that's bad debt."
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Costs of a Home Equity Loan |
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Written by Administrator
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Saturday, 28 November 2009 01:33 |
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An equity loan will cost you twice. First, you pay fees and closing costs, and then you pay interest.
Fees and closing costs
A home equity loan almost always carries fees and closing costs. Many lenders don't charge fees or closing costs on credit lines. If your lender does charge fees to open a credit line, don't rule out that offer immediately; maybe there are other features that make it a good deal. But shop around.
The fees that you pay for opening an equity account are similar to the ones you pay when you buy a home. The fees can total 2 percent to 5 percent of the loan and are for such things as:
- Property appraisal
- Application
- Title search
- Attorney or title agent
- Document preparation
The most common fee levied on a credit line is for an appraisal or other estimate of the property's value. Sometimes, instead of paying an appraiser to visit the house and compare it to other nearby homes of similar value, the lender accepts a computerized estimate called an automated valuation model, or AVM. Or a real estate agent might estimate the value in what is called a broker's price opinion, or BPO. AVMs and BPOs cost less than full appraisals.
Other fees and interest
The biggest cost you will pay on an equity loan or a credit line is the interest. Home equity loans usually have fixed rates, and credit lines usually have variable rates. If you get an equity loan on the same day that your neighbor gets a home equity line of credit (HELOC), your rate will be higher than your neighbor's. Over time, your neighbor's HELOC rate can rise higher than what you pay on the equity loan, but your rate never changes.
Some lenders offer "teaser" rates that are artificially low for a few months, then adjust to normal levels. The variable rate of a HELOC moves up and down with another rate, called an index. Most banks index HELOC rates to the prime rate or the prevailing yields on Treasury notes.
The lender adds a margin, or fixed number of percentage points, to the index to determine the new rate each time it is adjusted. For example, a HELOC might use the prime rate as an index, with a margin of 1 percentage point. If the prime rate is 3 percent, the HELOC's rate is 4 percent (the 3 percent prime plus 1 percent margin). If prime rises to 3.5 percent, the HELOC's rate will rise to 4.5 percent. Adjustments can be made monthly, quarterly or annually.
Variable-rate loans have a cap on how high the interest can climb over the life of the loan. Most variable-rate lines of credit also have a cap that limits how much, and how often, the interest rate can change during the course of a year. This cap typically prevents the rate from jumping more than two percentage points in a year. Some plans require a minimum monthly payment.
Credit lines sometimes have other fees attached to them, such as annual maintenance charges, transaction fees each time you use the account, or inactivity fees if you don't use the account. Both types of equity debt may be subject to prepayment penalties, which are charged if you pay off or close the account within two or three years.
If you expect to sell the house within a couple of years, don't get an equity account with a prepayment penalty.
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